3.11.2005

Restaurant: Couvron

From The New Yorker: Goings On About Town: Tables For Two

COUVRON
508 Greenwich St. (212-966-6225)

"Owned by the husband-and-wife team of Maura Jarach and the chef Tony Demes, it is named for the small town in Picardy where Jarach was born (she moved here, with her American parents, at the age of five). The couple ran a well-regarded restaurant of the same name in Portland, Oregon, for eight years but had an itch to get back to New York, and they opened Couvron last September. The place is not without its contradictions. Jarach doesn’t stand on ceremony, greeting you in jeans and a long-sleeved black T-shirt, as if she had just come from a poetry reading at the Ear Inn, around the corner, and yet Demes’s inventive menu is unambiguously high-end. The wine list, too, favors the kind of bottles that are out of reach for anyone working in a field in which the words “year-end bonus” are never heard. (Luckily, there is a wonderful and affordable selection of wines by the glass.)"

No comments: